A BRIEF HISTORY OF COFFEE
As the moon shone high above the rugged mountains of Ethiopia, Kaldi lay exhausted after a several-day journey with his goats to find fresh grazing land. However, his rest was short-lived as he heard his goats bleating and jumping about. Fearful for their safety, Kaldi sprang to his feet and hurried to their side. When he reached them, he was relieved to find them unharmed, but what he saw left him puzzled. The goats were dancing and prancing around a strange, glistening bush with large green leaves and colorful berries. Curiosity piqued, Kaldi tried the sweet fruit and discovered a taste unlike any he had known, with two hard seeds inside. Filled with gratitude to his goats for discovering this new food source, Kaldi joined them in a dance, creating a rhythmic beat that echoed through the hills and became the song of the origin of coffee.
While the story of Kaldi, the Ethiopian goat herder in the 9th century CE, may add a great level of mystique and myth to the origins of coffee, whether or not it is true may never be known.
The true stories behind coffee may not be as fun as the image of Kaldi dancing with his goats in the rift valley, but they are even more interesting and just as mystical. Coffee originates in Ethiopia, home to the largest array of wild coffee varietals, but the history of its consumption is traced back to Yemen. This has led to the factoid that coffee originates in Yemen. Prior to the 15th century, coffee was being consumed by Yemeni Sufi mystics, but its use and function are unclear. It was likely used to aid prayer or meditation, but they were consuming green coffee beans, and it was not roasted. It was not until the 16th century, with the birth of Qahveh Khaneh (coffeehouses), that the consumption of coffee started to become more documented. These Qahveh Khaneh acted as a space for people to come together and socialize over coffee, maybe in a not too dissimilar manner from today.
In the 17th century, coffee was going global at a rapid rate, with the Qahveh Khaneh spreading across the Islamic world and the first coffee shops in Europe, as well as in America in the later part of the century. These locations became significant locations for scholars and intellectuals. Although this all sounds great, coffee shares a history with colonialism, acting as an important commodity of the global trades with companies such as the Dutch East India Company establishing large scale plantations in Java and other locations. Coffee's demand grew rapidly with large scale import to Europe and the Americas during this time.
The 18th century marked another important phase of the development of coffee. Coffee was being grown in even more locations, not only to meet demand but in search of a better coffee. This period marks a significant change in the mentality toward coffee, with a desire to improve roasting and brewing methods to try and get a better end result. The increasing globalization, sophistication, and consumption of coffee show its important role in this period of global history in the Age of Enlightenment. Coffee shares its rich history with tea, yet it has a much less famous narrative than tea, especially during this era of history.
The 19th century is a period synonymous with the Age of Industrialization, with the rise of railroads, stronger communication networks worldwide, and new machinery, the way coffee could be grown, transported and even talked about had changed forever. The global demand for coffee was increasing exponentially, and with it came the increase in supply. New technologies from industrialization meant coffee could be mass-produced at an even greater rate.
In the 20th century, coffee was one of the most consumed beverages worldwide. The rise of instant coffee and global coffee chains made coffee vastly accessible, meaning that most people could obtain it. This period saw many innovations in roasting, brewing, and espresso machine methods, with the latter part of the century having similar brewing facilities to those we see today.
It was not until the late 20th century that the term "specialty coffee" was coined, marking a significant point in coffee's history where it became the product we know today. Coffee is no longer treated as a commodity; instead, baristas treat it as something special, with emphasis on quality, working conditions, farm practices, roasting methods, brewing, and taste. Coffee origins became fundamental, marking the birth of the third wave of coffee.
If you are unfamiliar with the term "third wave," it may sound strange, especially in relation to coffee. However, it is a relatively helpful term that is often more informative than just using "specialty." The first wave refers to a time when coffee was just coffee, treated as a commodity, and its biggest advancement was its global spread, making it more convenient.
The second wave began placing emphasis on coffee's origins, roast profile, and taste, with coffee chains starting to offer an array of roasts or bean origins. The quality of coffee became increasingly important during this phase. This wave also gave birth to latte art and many of the other trends that remain popular signifiers of good coffee today.
Finally, the third wave encompasses many of the coffee shops opening today. These places typically have a large emphasis on the coffee itself, which can be recognized by their shorter menu or fewer drink options. The options that they do have are typically crafted meticulously by highly skilled baristas. As previously mentioned, it is not just the quality that is of key importance here, but the whole journey from bean-to-cup.